How to choose the right buttons for your garment

Although this may sound rather straightforward to some, choosing what button to use with your garment may be a difficult decision. Whether you are swapping them on a purchased garment, or one you are making yourself, there are a few things you should bear in mind. Especially, if, like me, you love vintage buttons and wish to use some of those (like from your granny's box).

To start with, it is important to remember, that the size of the button counts in its diameter, as well as it thickness. Then, there are flat, or sew-through buttons and buttons with shanks. The latter can be very beautiful, but cannot be machine-sewn. Obviously, there are lots of different materials to choose from, and finally, the finish, as some buttons may have rough surface and turn out unsuitable for certain fabrics.


First of all we need to determine the purpose of the buttons on our garments. Are they going to serve as fastening, or will they be purely ornamental? Or, you may consider concealed buttons, for a change.

Blouse and shirt buttons

This kind of button is usually flar and simple, as well as relatively thin. As long as they are functional and not concealed, they will have the ornamental side to them. Concealed closures require very plain buttons, even transparent. Shank buttons are OK, but as I have already pointed out, you cannot machine-sew those! Two or four holes - either will do.

Popularly, blouse buttons are 10 - 12 mm across (3/9" to about 1/2"), while men's shirt buttons are usually a bit larger, like 14 - 15 mm (about 5/8") across. Why this difference? Well, women's garments are usually smaller. Of course you can have larger size there as well, but make sure this is what you are looking for!

I discourage using fancy shape buttons, like flower or square, as they will make it difficult to fasten it quickly when you are getting ready in the morning! I used little white roses once on a shirt and I really regret it every time I put it on!

The best materials to be used are those which can be easily washed, like conventional plastic (acrylic), but also mother of pearl, metal, and even vegetable ivory, or corozo as they call it, but those cannot be tumble-dried (they may break).

Cardigan buttons

The buttons here are made of a variety of materials: wood, corozo, celluloid and regular plastic. 

In this category we have more freedom of choice, as both flat and shank buttons look great on knits. My personal choice would be shanks, but I know a lot of men's cardigans have large flat buttons, or the granny's knitted ones, too.

The size is usually larger, from 15 mm on - but this depends on the yarn and size of the cardigan. I remember my aunt's long garment from 1980's with huge black buttons, larger than any coat I had seen. That was fun!

The fluffier the sweater the more bulky the buttons should be. Some ball buttons may be just great. I would advise against using texture with knits, as it may catch the little threads of the yarn and eventually destroy your favourite knit. So smooth surface buttons.

As to materials, I believe that you can use anything you want, because I assume you are not going to wash your knit too often. However, some buttons may need to be removed before machine-washing or dry-cleaning, and that includes casein, wood and leather, as well as some metals.

Jacket / blazer buttons

For a jacket or a blazer, as well as for a suit, we usually need two sizes of buttons: smaller for the sleeves, pockets, etc. and larger for the front. Sometimes, there is just one large button there, and that's all, but usually it requires both sizes.

The larger ones are 23 mm (7/8") - 32 mm (1 1/4") across, while the smaller ones are usually 18-20 mm (3/4") across. The number of buttons you need in each size really depends on the style and preference, but I would encourage acquiring an additional button in each size in case one gets lost (and we all know they do!).

Shapes and materials can vary as much as tastes. Shank buttons are great, again, and flats, and textured, and smooth, perhaps passemanterie buttons are not recommended, as they will quickly deteriorate.

Coat buttons

These are definitely my favourite, as they may come in large sizes and fabulous dreamy styles! 1960's MOD's style buttons were the best! And you can use all sorts of materials, too, because coats are never machine washed, and cleaned so rarely you do not mind removing them for an occasional wash.

Just like in the case of jackets, larger and smaller buttons in the same style may be required, however, there is almost no limit to the size of the larger ones. The smaller may be 23 - 28 mm (7/8" - 1 1/8"), while the larger, anything from 18 mm (1 1/8") and above. I have some fabulous 50 mm (2") buttons for coats here that I am so anxious to use!


Buttons for furs

These are very specific buttons, really. They can be made of a variety of materials, however, there are basically two shapes which can go with furs: deep cup buttons, or bulky ball buttons with shanks. They will guarantee that you will find the button in the long hair without having to search extensively. The holes are usually in a shape of a loop to make it easier to fasten them.

Buttons for furs should be quite large, about 25 - 26 mm (1 inch) in diameter. And at least 5-6 mm (1/4") thick. The best material, in my opinion, is conventional plastic with smooth surface, like these ball buttons.

Duffle coat buttons

Last but not least, these buttons deserve a separate section. The questions what buttons duffle coats use lies in the horn-shaped buttons, originally made of real horn, however, nowadays they are most popularly made of plastic or wood, instead. They are called toggle buttons.

The toggles usually larger and placed on leather / faux leather straps, or pieces or string, depending on the style. You can make these yourself (you can find a tutorial here) or buy ready made pieces and just sew them to your garment.

These button closures will look great not only on coats, but also on cardigans and fur collars, and even without the strap. Check out this upgrade I made to an otherwise boring pea coat.