How to clean vintage buttons

After the first thrilling moment of opening a box of vintage buttons and discovering some really unique pieces, we are faced with a problem of how to clean the buttons without destroying their unique qualities like colour, details or even the whole design.

   

Which buttons can be machine washed

Some buttons are good for machine washing, but unless they are made of acrylic or nylon plastic, I would not recommend putting them through the process, as they may break, chip, soak and whatever else. These plastics only started to be commonly used in 1960s so if you have older buttons, you may not want to risk damaging them (a few hints can be learnt from my article about dating buttons).

Manufacturers claim that vegetable ivory (or corozo) buttons can be machine washed. While this is 100% true, older buttons are dyed using not very durable dyes, especially green and blue ones, and this may lead to slight or complete decoloration. Also, the buttons may 'bleed', staining other clothes, so definitely not recommended for vintage corozo buttons. Very importantly, tumble-drying may prove even worse for corozo buttons. They should dry slowly in room temperature. Heating them while still wet may lead to braking or chipping of the buttons.

An example of bleeding on a vintage button card

Casein buttons MUSTN'T go to under the washing process. If you wash them just once, you will see nothing has happened (unless you wash in high temperatures, which is much worse). However, if you do that repeatedly, it will lead to significant deterioration, including cracking, buttons becoming dull, or even dissolving completely.

Dry-cleaning is safe, at least theoretically, but you never have the guarantee that the buttons don't get broken in the process due to someone's carelessness.

These buttons have cracks and dull surface, due to repeated machine washing.

Celluloid and plexi glass can chip and break in the automated washing cycle, though there won't be a reaction as was the case of casein. The same may be true about glass buttons.

Wooden buttons will suffer even worse, as they were probably not treated for machine washing, so anything may happen to them. They will soak in more water than corozo buttons, and may bend or crack.

Bakelite is definitely the most indicated for machine washing from all vintage plastics.

If you are thinking of machine-washing buttons, remember to put other clothes in the machine to cushion any impact. Secure the buttons in a mesh bag, preferably sealed with a plastic zipper, rather than just tied. Avoid excessive spinning as this may damage the buttons mechanically.

And obviously, do not wash buttons on cards!

How to clean buttons

The best way to clean the buttons is to do it manually, using different tools and solutions.

Firstly, it is useful to remove any dust with a dry brush. I use different densities, depending on how stuck the dust is to a button. An old toothbrush can also be useful, but remember to disinfect it first. You will be surprised at how much dirt goes away. If the buttons are very dirty, I recommend wearing a facemask, just a simple one to avoid breathing in the dust. You can even clean carded buttons this way, and the old button cards.

Never approach a dusty card with a damp cloth first, as you will only impregnate it in form of grayish stain to the card!

Of course, once dusted, buttons are ready to be wiped with a damp cloth. The Vileda yellow one is a great choice. Make sure you squeeze out as much water as possible. This way you will only use a very small amount of water, and so not enough to damage the buttons or their colour.

I sometimes use damp make-up sponges with pointed edges to get to the dirt stuck deeply in the details of the buttons. Again, use as little water as possible.

What to clean buttons with

I definitely recommend just dry brushes and water, whenever possible. However, sometimes there are stains which resist this treatment, and these should be targeted with specific solutions.

Rusty stains are a problem not only for buttons, but also vintage buckles. I had a few buckles, perfectly preserved and unused, which must have been stored in a damp place, because many metal prongs got rusty. I removed them of course, but the buckle, usually a casein or Bakelite piece, had a small stain of rust, or two. Some people believe Coca-cola is the best solution for rust-stained objects. Well, I disagree, as simple (and much cheaper) vinegar does the job a lot better. And it is not sticky. So wipe the stained surface with a cotton soaked in vinegar and rub gently.

A lot of my buttons come from times, when haberdashery was presented on cards (buckles too!). Most of the times they were attached to them with thread, but at some point people started using glue for the same purpose. These leave white glue marks on the bottom of the buttons. Luckily, it comes off with alcohol. If it resists, leave the button on a soaked cotton pad, facing the glue-side down, and rub from time to time. The good thing is that it does not usually affect the colouring, even on Tagua nut buttons. I do not recommend to for wooden buttons covered in thick layer of paint, but these do not usually come on glued cards.

Both vinegar and alcohol are effective in cleaning grease from vintage buttons. This may be a problem in case of old tins of buttons, sorted through dozens of times by those little hands of all the children in the family. I know, I was one of them ;)

A few of the buttons I have encountered had small spots of white paint on them. I was lucky as this was the classic wall paint, which comes off either mechanically (scratching off) or with a bit of water. Definitely more difficult if you are dealing with other kinds of paint and polish. A dissolvent may be necessary, but I recommend trying first with a cotton swab soaked in the dissolvent, on the wrong side. First swab it, and if nothing happens, leave the swab against the button for a moment. It may not work immediately, and you want to be sure it will not affect the colouring.

Rust is the biggest problem, especially if the whole piece, not only parts, are made of it, and different metals produce different kinds of rust. While iron pieces affected by it, even when chromed, turn into ugly pieces of metal, brass and copper produce different kinds of rust, which can be removed. The pieces may be restored.

First I recommend leaving the piece in vinegar for a while. It will remove most of the rust. Then rub it off and dry. You will find that the area previously covered with rust has recovered the shape, but not the colour. For this you will need the Simichrome Polish, which I have spoken about in the Bakelite testing.

Rub several times, always wiping dry after each time. You will observe how the stain diminishes, until it disappears completely.

Believe it or not, the center of this piece was BLACK when I first saw it!

I hope you find these tips useful, also to clean other vintage treasures!