I have always been fascinated by vintage patterns. It is actually how I discovered Etsy in the first place. Once I got there, back in 2012, I couldn't take my eyes off the beautiful drawings, the minimalist lines of the 1960s, and the indisputable charm of it all. Back in the day I was into sewing, determined to learn how to make my own clothes and have an ideal wardrobe (here you can find out how I did), so obviously I purchased a few patterns on impulse, without even realising what my vintage size was. I just grabbed whatever I could lay my eyes on.
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| My personal happy collection of vintage patterns |
When the patterns arrived a few weeks later (they were shipped from the US), I was very disappointed. First of all, I bought two totally different sizes, which seemed the same when I first added them to my cart, and NONE of them was a fit! They were too big. I was desperate and didn't know where to start. And I wanted that cute 1960s dress so badly! I ended up sewing something from a modern-day pattern by BurdaStyle, but the goal was still to make something more authentic. I scoured the Internet for help.
How to start with vintage patterns
The sizing
The first step is to understand that vintage sizing has nothing to do with contemporary sizes. Whether you live in the US, UK, Europe or anywhere else in the world, there is no universal table that could recalculate or indicate which size corresponds to what. The best indication you have is the bust size, usually given in inches. And even so, it can be misleading. When I first calculated by bust, being about 88 cm, I got that it would correspond to 34", that's what simple math can do. So I went back on line and purchased another set of glamorous patterns, only to realise this is not my size either. (I made a tie belt and I still wear the top I made, though!)
Years later, when I was already into selling buttons, a huge load of vintage patterns landed on my doorstep, purchased locally from someone, who was getting rid of old stuff and offered me a good price on the lot. That's how Vintage Patterns section was added to AgnesVintageButtons. There were some amazing, unique Vogue pieces among them! I also found some styles that I decided to try out. They were all in bust 32" size, but I gathered that I would make a wearable muslin and see what happened. To my surprise, it fitted like a glove!
Since then I have made several styles in this size, however, not all of the were an instant fit. Some turned out very loose (!) and others pretty tight at the waist, even for me - I do have a very narrow waist compared to the bust and hips, which is perfect for most vintage patterns, and I often have to modify modern patterns to achieve this flattering nip at waistline. Remember that many women used to wear corsets back then, so dresses may have unnaturally tight waist!
The bottom line is:
- take bust measurement into account when you determine your size
- try out two sizes, even if one seems too small
- make allowances at the waist, even if you are hourglass silhouette
- measure the pattern pieces at key points and then compare to half of mesurements +1cm or 3/8"
The seam allowances
There are countries, like the UK or the US where seam allowances are usually included in the purchased patterns by default. There are others, like France, or Germany (that's BurdaStyle again!) where you get patterns with no seam allowances, which you will have to draft yourself on the fabric. There are pros and cons of each attitude. The first one will appeal to starters, while the second attitude makes any alterations far easier. The former will allow you to plan cutting more efficiently while the second may prove tricky on the fabric, but if you are using jersey dress, you can decide of a different width.
Whichever way your pattern is designed to be, make sure you check whether it includes the seam allowances or you are required to draft them yourself. This will save you a lot of headache afterwards. Do not be afraid of patterns without seam allowances and you will be able to use original French pieces, straight from 1960s Paris! Back then people would go mad about a pattern knowing that the model actually visited Paris for the photo shoot. What better that a truly original piece?
Using the pattern
Before you start using a vintage pattern, it is advisable to iron each piece properly to get rid of any wrinkles and crease, which could alter the final result and your satisfaction with the piece you are making. Check if it is complete, some smaller pieces may be stuck in the envelope or in-between the instruction sheets.
I always copy the pieces onto new paper. This way any alterations can be introduced at the stage of drafting. If it offers variations, you pick one, and leave the other options be. Finally, it means that you will be using a copy, and the original tissue paper will be safe from any damage (scissors, pins, needles... there are lots of dangerous sharp objects that can harm them in the process!). Vintage patterns are already in good value, and this trend does not seem to change. Who knows what they will be worth in a couple of decades?
I love how every notch, every important place is marked not once, but twice or thrice on the pattern pieces! And the instructions are so detailed that even a freshman sewist can make a dress or even a coat. Compare it to BurdaStyle, which I still find confusing and I have to re-read several times to understand what they mean (not only in English, I struggle with them in my native Polish and also Spanish, which I find the easiest, I think).
Mending the pattern pieces
Vintage patterns are usually several decades old, and made of cheap, tissue paper. Even a new-looking and factory folded pattern may present small tears, or you may inadvertently make one while only unfolding them. Don't reach out for plastic adhesive tape - although it sounds like a perfect solution. First read this article on how to mend them so you or another person in the future can use them properly.
Sometimes you will find just cuts along the darts, or seam allowances (without them being cut off totally). Don't despair - these may actually help you trace the details better onto your fabric.
Other interesting questions
Perhaps you are already hoarding a vast collection of patterns, but haven't used them because they happen to be the wrong size, maybe one or more pieces are missing, and they aren't necessarily a rectangular pocket or a tie belt, which would be very easy to recreate. So I am sharing a few external links to blog entries that I have found useful on:
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